Repair Shop Archive

ARTICLES FROM THE PAST

OCTOBER

That is one of the great mysteries of the universe! The 10mm socket is famously the most common size to go missing for anyone who works on cars or other machinery. It's such a well-known problem that it's become a major running joke among mechanics and DIYers. While I can't magically find your specific socket, here are the most common places they like to hide:

Engine Bay/Under the Car: It likely rolled off a part and fell down into a hard-to-see spot, like a skid plate, subframe, or along a wire harness. Use a flashlight or a flexible inspection camera (if you have one) to look in those deep dark crevices; Toolbox Drawers: It might be hiding under the foam or liner of a drawer, or tucked into a corner you didn't check; Your Pockets: Double-check all of your shirt and pants pockets, especially the deep ones; The Floor/Ground: It probably rolled away under a bench, a tool chest, or even off into the grass or gravel; The Last Thing You Worked On: Did you finish a job recently? It might still be magnetically attached to a wrench, extension, or even stuck on a bolt head you forgot to remove.

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The "hardest job" for a mechanic typically isn't a single, straightforward repair, but rather a combination of complexity, inaccessibility, and technical specialization. Based on consensus from professional mechanics, the most challenging tasks are: Electrical Diagnostics and Intermittent Issues This is often cited as the most frustrating because it requires more detective work and advanced knowledge than physical labor; The Challenge: Modern vehicles are entirely run by complex computer networks and miles of wiring. An intermittent problem (one that only happens sometimes) means the mechanic has to use advanced diagnostic tools and wiring diagrams to trace a fault that may not be present when the car is in the shop.

Examples: A sporadic dashboard warning light, a module losing communication, or a random power drain that kills the battery overnight. This demands patience and expertise in reading schematics.

NOVEMBER

Radiator fixes primarily address leaks, clogs, and trapped air. Fixing Leaks: Add commercial Leak Sealant to the coolant/water, the product circulates and plugs minor leaks. Temporary fix for small leaks to safely reach a repair shop. This can sometimes clog heater cores or coolant channels and is not a permanent solution. Visible Cracks/Holes use JB Weld: The area around the leak must be meticulously cleaned and dried before a specialized epoxy is applied. Short-term to long-term fix for plastic or metal tanks/cores where the damage is isolated and accessible. Radiator Hoses. If a hose is brittle, cracked, or leaking at the connection point, replace it and use new clamps. Tighten the Nut or Valve, a slight tightening with a wrench will stop the leak. If the leak persists, the internal seal may need replacement. Clogs and Contamination Problem: The old coolant is drained, and a specialized radiator cleaner/super flush is added to the system and circulated to break down rust and mineral deposits. Preventative maintenance (usually every 2-5 years) to maintain optimal cooling efficiency. Blockage Power Flushing: An aggressive flushing process that can dislodge stubborn internal blockages in the radiator tubes. For radiators that are still structurally sound but show signs of reduced flow or overheating due to clogs.

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Which Part Should You Choose? The optimal choice depends on the component's function: Best for Factory (OEM) Parts Use OEM parts when safety, exact fit, or complex electronics are critical. Safety/Structural Components: Airbags, seatbelts, collision-related body panels, and sensors (like ABS or stability control sensors). Aftermarket body panels may not fit correctly or have proper crumple zones. Complex Electronics/Sensors: Engine Control Unit (ECU), mass airflow sensors, and oxygen sensors. These often need perfect compatibility with the vehicle's computer system. Vehicles Under Warranty or Lease: Using OEM parts helps avoid potential warranty disputes and often satisfies lease return requirements.
Best for Generic (Aftermarket) Parts Use reputable aftermarket brands when cost savings are the priority and quality is less complex: Routine Maintenance Items: Filters (oil, air, cabin), wiper blades, and spark plugs. Brake Pads/Rotors: Many quality aftermarket brands offer options that are equal to or even outperform OEM standards. Performance Upgrades: Suspension components, exhaust systems, and specialized lighting, which are designed to exceed factory specifications. Older Vehicles: Vehicles for which OEM parts are difficult or expensive to source. A Key Tip: When choosing an aftermarket part, stick to reputable, well-known brands that specialize in that particular component, and always ask your trusted mechanic for their recommendation.